Po-Boys Don't Eat Out

Lent is upon us, and I wondered with Mardi Gras over would my blog once again flounder, but then came my tax return. And with that cash in hand I went on a tour de chow down, from po-boys, buffets, and all the way to fine dining and back. And while my waist line may not be benefitting, I have an idea of what the heavenly banquet will be like, cause if they don't have debris gravy in heaven, I might have to sneak some in.

Gravy should be on most things.

So let's start at the beginning of my journey. On Meaty-Thursday, the beefiest of days between Ash Wednesday and the first Friday of Lent I decided I had to make it to Domilise's Po-Boy and Bar for the Roast Beef & Swiss. Domilise's is tucked away on Annunciation street, and is about as homey and run-down looking as a place can be, while still having charm. And this po-boy is magic, covered in debris gravy, creole mustard and some amazing roast beef, this Meaty-Thursday trip was well worth it. Have it with a bag of Zapp's Voo-Doo BBQ if you want the whole New Orleans sandwich experience at one time. If you think you can handle it.

The next stop on the culinary circuit was the Treme institution of Creole cooking, Dooky Chase Restaurant. Open since 1941, leaders of the civil rights movement gathered here for meetings in the 1960s. The owner, Miss Leah Chase is a local legend and an award winning chef. We went for the lunch buffet, and the red beans and rice with sausage was possibly the best version of red beans I might have ever had. The food is buffet style and so for a decent price you can eat as much as you want. Also being served that day was pork chops, catfish, and a small salad bar. I didn't see many patrons spend much time lingering over the salad bar. The downside is the soft drinks are not free refill, so my advice, drink beer, you won't feel silly paying for a couple of 'em.

And to end my gastro-cation, (yes, that was a stretch) I went to Dante's Kitchen Uptown right off of River Road in the River-Bend, for one of the best meals I might have ever had. I might be sounding hyperbolic, but really, it was some of the best food I have ever had the chance to gourmandize, because yes, I do consider myself a gourmand after this week. We started with the Charcuterie, a fancy meat and cracker platter. And while it was a bit small for an appetizer, the pork salami that we had was amazing. It came with whiskey mustard, pickled watermelon, and figs. Then they brought out sweet molasses bread dripping with a spoonful of honey butter, which we gobbled up. My friend Mar ordered the braised beef cheeks, which where phenomenal. We ordered two sides to share, grits, and turnip greens, which both blew me out of the water. And I had the braised rabbit pasta, which was transcendent. The food honestly brought me closer to God. We finished with a walnut-apple pie and a chocolate-meringue cloud. And I thought about going outside to smoke a cigarette, it was that good. Maybe I just haven't had upscale fine dining kind of food in awhile, but seriously, check out Dante's if you live in New Orleans, or if you're visiting.

Keep eating.

Yeah You Right, Joe.

When I see the Mardi Gras...

Mardi Gras Statistics:
28 Hours Continuously Awake
16 Parades Attended
5 Coconuts Caught
3 Indian Tribes Spotted
1 Muses Shoe Caught
1 Ball Attended

Well here we are in Lent, and New Orleans has returned to some sense of what we down here think is normal, though honestly it's not. When trying to figure out how to categorize, qualify, or even describe my Mardi Gras, I got stumped. What is it that we do? Why? What counts as Mardi Gras and what does not? How do you know? On the crazy adventure that was Lundi Gras night into Mardi Gras day I discovered a number of ways that this beautiful holiday is celebrated. There is of course the parades, the costumes and the magnificent throws; there's the Mardi Gras Indians with their chants and beautifully crafted costumes; there's the block party with speakers, grills, and beer; and there is the wild mess that is the Marigny and the Quarter. It's amazing. There is no single event that we gather around, there is a celebration that takes thousands of expressions and becomes this enchanting magic that settles over the city and surrounding areas and BOOM it's freakin' time for the Mardi Gras Mambo, y'heard?
So instead of trying to describe everything I did, I made a video, about 4 minutes long, where I tried to shove 4 weeks of awesome into 4 minutes. You're welcome.  I hope you enjoy.

Yeah You Right, Joe.

Did You go to Mardi Gras?

Once, while in a theater in Omaha, Nebraska (it is my motherland, hence my being there) while waiting for a movie to start a conversation began, as so often does when I'm with anyone.. The normal where are you froms were exchanged and when we said we were from New Orleans the questions began. If you can imagine, when you're from Omaha everywhere else is pretty exciting. Then the question came: "Did you go to Mardi Gras?"
While I don't remember how we answered, it should have gone like this:
"Well, did you go to Christmas?" because you can't really "go" to Mardi Gras. There is a season called Carnival, but a lot of us call the whole thing Mardi Gras. Mardi gras is a time, and the things that happen in it. Mardi Gras is used as an adjective to describe a type, more than it used to describe a place, or a thing. Ex: A Mardi Gras Parade, Mardi Gras Colors, a Mardi Gras drink, or that Mardi Gras song. In fact, here's my favorite Mardi Gras song, and if you're wonderin', why yes, there is whole sub-genre of Mardi Gras music:

So go ahead and enjoy the hell out of the song because I know I have. I guess what I'm trying to say is that Mardi Gras can't simply be gone to, it's not just a place or a parade, it's surely not about boobs, it's a state of mind. It's in our houses, our music, and the way we walk. Mardi Gras is here, and yet beyond us. While I'm probably getting myself in trouble here, Mardi Gras has something to do with the Kingdom of Heaven metaphor we like to banter about. **Steps down from soapboax** So now that my rather lame attempt to educate people about Mardi Gras is over, we can talk about what it is that I have done.

I went to the Krewe du Vieux parade, on Jan. 19th (Mardi Gras officially starts on Jan. 6th, Epiphany baby) which I won't talk about or post pictures of, you simply have to go and experience it for yourself. If you want an idea of what it's like (Warning: XXX-Rated) you can check it out here. Suffice it to say, it was a really really good time. And Roger Goodell still sucks out loud.
Krewe of Barkus (which is poking-fun of the Super-Krewe, Bacchus) is a dog parade. People dress up their dogs and of course themselves, and try to fit the whole thing into this year's theme, which was Honey Boo Boo, for serious. But in classic New Orleans style, it's also a whole lot more. The parades are interspersed with live bands, dance troupes, and general frivolity, also specific frivolity, like dogs in tutus.

Top right: Honey Bow Wow. Bottom left: Sweet Mardi Gras Decor on a house in the French Quarter.

Barkus (we rarely actually used the word Krewe when describing a parade, except for Krewe du Vieux, ... I have no idea why) is a walking parade. And a lot of people walk their dogs. There are no tractors, and in this one there's not even mules. All of the "floats" are hand-drawn, and many of the throws (those are the things that throw off of floats, you might call them trinkets, widgets, or trash, but I'll fight you for 'em on the street) are actually dog biscuits. I mean, it is actually a parade for dogs, so it makes sense. We dance, play, and enjoy the Mardi Gras season together ... with our dogs.

Anyway, this past weekend I went to yet another set of parades, but this time I wasn't even in New Orleans. Yes, the party spreads out over all of Gulf South, and even the home of the original American Mardi Gras, Mobile, AL. But I didn't make it that far, I made it to Metairie, LA. If you ever wondering where you can find the local Chili's, Chipotle, or Panera, you have to drive "all the way" out to Metairie, about 15 min. from uptown. I saw the Krewe of Excalibur, and the Krewe of Atlas. Metairie parades are family affairs, and there are lots of children - EVERYWHERE. And in the Spirit of Southern Louisiana one of the parades "broke down" for 2 1/2 hours. So we stood in the neutral ground (Yankees, read: median) and partied for a few hours, while we waited for the parades. So, Keep Calm and Mardi Gras On!

And if you get the chance, come out for some parades and a damn good time.

Yeah You Right, Joe.

Mardi Gras Indians > Apologies

So first things first, I'm sorry.
I said I was going to blog once a week ... it's been four freakin' months.
But, it's a new year, and even better it's Carnival time!!!! AHHHHHHH - I'm so excited.
So as a quick look back over the last four months there is one place I have visited a few times, and that's the Backstreet Cultural Museum. I went here with both my friend Sarah, as well as my friends Elliott and Sam. This little museum is a tribute to the Black Cultural events that have occurred in the backstreets of New Orleans for quite some time. This includes the second line, social aid and pleasure clubs and my favorite, the Mardi Gras Indian.
The abridged version of this story is (I could go on forever and ever, for serious): Native American Indians helped Black slaves to freedom. As a tribute to the Native Americans, and as an expression of culture, Mardi Gras Indian tribes began to form. At first the masking was simpler and the dancing and chants less complex. The suits began the evolutionary process of becoming grand pieces of elaborate artwork, beads, feathers, and shells, towering up to 10 feet tall. My friend Sarah said, "When we were little kids and they gave us a piece of paper with a mask on it decorate for Mardi Gras, this is what we thought we were going to make." But it's so much better! The Indians come out on Mardi Gras, St. Joseph's Day, and for some of the Jazz Fest performances. The Indians have unique songs, chants, and dances that they use when they meet in the street. The Iko-Iko song is a Mardi Gras Indian chant. Indians follow no particular route. In the past there has been trouble with NOPD, and at times there still is. But the Indians dance on.
Lord, I am gushing and ranting, but I freakin' love the Indians.
The suits they wear, suit is the preferred term, take the entire year to build, and are only worn for one short season. I would argue that they are one of the most beautiful forms of folk art alive and well in the United States today.

Anyway, I think the Mardi Gras Indians are much more important than my silly apology and a wonderful segue into blogging about the rest of the Mardi Gras season. 

Yeah You Right, Joe