Po-Boys Don't Eat Out

Lent is upon us, and I wondered with Mardi Gras over would my blog once again flounder, but then came my tax return. And with that cash in hand I went on a tour de chow down, from po-boys, buffets, and all the way to fine dining and back. And while my waist line may not be benefitting, I have an idea of what the heavenly banquet will be like, cause if they don't have debris gravy in heaven, I might have to sneak some in.

Gravy should be on most things.

So let's start at the beginning of my journey. On Meaty-Thursday, the beefiest of days between Ash Wednesday and the first Friday of Lent I decided I had to make it to Domilise's Po-Boy and Bar for the Roast Beef & Swiss. Domilise's is tucked away on Annunciation street, and is about as homey and run-down looking as a place can be, while still having charm. And this po-boy is magic, covered in debris gravy, creole mustard and some amazing roast beef, this Meaty-Thursday trip was well worth it. Have it with a bag of Zapp's Voo-Doo BBQ if you want the whole New Orleans sandwich experience at one time. If you think you can handle it.

The next stop on the culinary circuit was the Treme institution of Creole cooking, Dooky Chase Restaurant. Open since 1941, leaders of the civil rights movement gathered here for meetings in the 1960s. The owner, Miss Leah Chase is a local legend and an award winning chef. We went for the lunch buffet, and the red beans and rice with sausage was possibly the best version of red beans I might have ever had. The food is buffet style and so for a decent price you can eat as much as you want. Also being served that day was pork chops, catfish, and a small salad bar. I didn't see many patrons spend much time lingering over the salad bar. The downside is the soft drinks are not free refill, so my advice, drink beer, you won't feel silly paying for a couple of 'em.

And to end my gastro-cation, (yes, that was a stretch) I went to Dante's Kitchen Uptown right off of River Road in the River-Bend, for one of the best meals I might have ever had. I might be sounding hyperbolic, but really, it was some of the best food I have ever had the chance to gourmandize, because yes, I do consider myself a gourmand after this week. We started with the Charcuterie, a fancy meat and cracker platter. And while it was a bit small for an appetizer, the pork salami that we had was amazing. It came with whiskey mustard, pickled watermelon, and figs. Then they brought out sweet molasses bread dripping with a spoonful of honey butter, which we gobbled up. My friend Mar ordered the braised beef cheeks, which where phenomenal. We ordered two sides to share, grits, and turnip greens, which both blew me out of the water. And I had the braised rabbit pasta, which was transcendent. The food honestly brought me closer to God. We finished with a walnut-apple pie and a chocolate-meringue cloud. And I thought about going outside to smoke a cigarette, it was that good. Maybe I just haven't had upscale fine dining kind of food in awhile, but seriously, check out Dante's if you live in New Orleans, or if you're visiting.

Keep eating.

Yeah You Right, Joe.

When I see the Mardi Gras...

Mardi Gras Statistics:
28 Hours Continuously Awake
16 Parades Attended
5 Coconuts Caught
3 Indian Tribes Spotted
1 Muses Shoe Caught
1 Ball Attended

Well here we are in Lent, and New Orleans has returned to some sense of what we down here think is normal, though honestly it's not. When trying to figure out how to categorize, qualify, or even describe my Mardi Gras, I got stumped. What is it that we do? Why? What counts as Mardi Gras and what does not? How do you know? On the crazy adventure that was Lundi Gras night into Mardi Gras day I discovered a number of ways that this beautiful holiday is celebrated. There is of course the parades, the costumes and the magnificent throws; there's the Mardi Gras Indians with their chants and beautifully crafted costumes; there's the block party with speakers, grills, and beer; and there is the wild mess that is the Marigny and the Quarter. It's amazing. There is no single event that we gather around, there is a celebration that takes thousands of expressions and becomes this enchanting magic that settles over the city and surrounding areas and BOOM it's freakin' time for the Mardi Gras Mambo, y'heard?
So instead of trying to describe everything I did, I made a video, about 4 minutes long, where I tried to shove 4 weeks of awesome into 4 minutes. You're welcome.  I hope you enjoy.

Yeah You Right, Joe.

Did You go to Mardi Gras?

Once, while in a theater in Omaha, Nebraska (it is my motherland, hence my being there) while waiting for a movie to start a conversation began, as so often does when I'm with anyone.. The normal where are you froms were exchanged and when we said we were from New Orleans the questions began. If you can imagine, when you're from Omaha everywhere else is pretty exciting. Then the question came: "Did you go to Mardi Gras?"
While I don't remember how we answered, it should have gone like this:
"Well, did you go to Christmas?" because you can't really "go" to Mardi Gras. There is a season called Carnival, but a lot of us call the whole thing Mardi Gras. Mardi gras is a time, and the things that happen in it. Mardi Gras is used as an adjective to describe a type, more than it used to describe a place, or a thing. Ex: A Mardi Gras Parade, Mardi Gras Colors, a Mardi Gras drink, or that Mardi Gras song. In fact, here's my favorite Mardi Gras song, and if you're wonderin', why yes, there is whole sub-genre of Mardi Gras music:

So go ahead and enjoy the hell out of the song because I know I have. I guess what I'm trying to say is that Mardi Gras can't simply be gone to, it's not just a place or a parade, it's surely not about boobs, it's a state of mind. It's in our houses, our music, and the way we walk. Mardi Gras is here, and yet beyond us. While I'm probably getting myself in trouble here, Mardi Gras has something to do with the Kingdom of Heaven metaphor we like to banter about. **Steps down from soapboax** So now that my rather lame attempt to educate people about Mardi Gras is over, we can talk about what it is that I have done.

I went to the Krewe du Vieux parade, on Jan. 19th (Mardi Gras officially starts on Jan. 6th, Epiphany baby) which I won't talk about or post pictures of, you simply have to go and experience it for yourself. If you want an idea of what it's like (Warning: XXX-Rated) you can check it out here. Suffice it to say, it was a really really good time. And Roger Goodell still sucks out loud.
Krewe of Barkus (which is poking-fun of the Super-Krewe, Bacchus) is a dog parade. People dress up their dogs and of course themselves, and try to fit the whole thing into this year's theme, which was Honey Boo Boo, for serious. But in classic New Orleans style, it's also a whole lot more. The parades are interspersed with live bands, dance troupes, and general frivolity, also specific frivolity, like dogs in tutus.

Top right: Honey Bow Wow. Bottom left: Sweet Mardi Gras Decor on a house in the French Quarter.

Barkus (we rarely actually used the word Krewe when describing a parade, except for Krewe du Vieux, ... I have no idea why) is a walking parade. And a lot of people walk their dogs. There are no tractors, and in this one there's not even mules. All of the "floats" are hand-drawn, and many of the throws (those are the things that throw off of floats, you might call them trinkets, widgets, or trash, but I'll fight you for 'em on the street) are actually dog biscuits. I mean, it is actually a parade for dogs, so it makes sense. We dance, play, and enjoy the Mardi Gras season together ... with our dogs.

Anyway, this past weekend I went to yet another set of parades, but this time I wasn't even in New Orleans. Yes, the party spreads out over all of Gulf South, and even the home of the original American Mardi Gras, Mobile, AL. But I didn't make it that far, I made it to Metairie, LA. If you ever wondering where you can find the local Chili's, Chipotle, or Panera, you have to drive "all the way" out to Metairie, about 15 min. from uptown. I saw the Krewe of Excalibur, and the Krewe of Atlas. Metairie parades are family affairs, and there are lots of children - EVERYWHERE. And in the Spirit of Southern Louisiana one of the parades "broke down" for 2 1/2 hours. So we stood in the neutral ground (Yankees, read: median) and partied for a few hours, while we waited for the parades. So, Keep Calm and Mardi Gras On!

And if you get the chance, come out for some parades and a damn good time.

Yeah You Right, Joe.

Mardi Gras Indians > Apologies

So first things first, I'm sorry.
I said I was going to blog once a week ... it's been four freakin' months.
But, it's a new year, and even better it's Carnival time!!!! AHHHHHHH - I'm so excited.
So as a quick look back over the last four months there is one place I have visited a few times, and that's the Backstreet Cultural Museum. I went here with both my friend Sarah, as well as my friends Elliott and Sam. This little museum is a tribute to the Black Cultural events that have occurred in the backstreets of New Orleans for quite some time. This includes the second line, social aid and pleasure clubs and my favorite, the Mardi Gras Indian.
The abridged version of this story is (I could go on forever and ever, for serious): Native American Indians helped Black slaves to freedom. As a tribute to the Native Americans, and as an expression of culture, Mardi Gras Indian tribes began to form. At first the masking was simpler and the dancing and chants less complex. The suits began the evolutionary process of becoming grand pieces of elaborate artwork, beads, feathers, and shells, towering up to 10 feet tall. My friend Sarah said, "When we were little kids and they gave us a piece of paper with a mask on it decorate for Mardi Gras, this is what we thought we were going to make." But it's so much better! The Indians come out on Mardi Gras, St. Joseph's Day, and for some of the Jazz Fest performances. The Indians have unique songs, chants, and dances that they use when they meet in the street. The Iko-Iko song is a Mardi Gras Indian chant. Indians follow no particular route. In the past there has been trouble with NOPD, and at times there still is. But the Indians dance on.
Lord, I am gushing and ranting, but I freakin' love the Indians.
The suits they wear, suit is the preferred term, take the entire year to build, and are only worn for one short season. I would argue that they are one of the most beautiful forms of folk art alive and well in the United States today.

Anyway, I think the Mardi Gras Indians are much more important than my silly apology and a wonderful segue into blogging about the rest of the Mardi Gras season. 

Yeah You Right, Joe

Down in Da Quarter

Go to Cafe Du Monde, eat beignets.

There is a treasure in New Orleans that many a tourist stop by, but sometimes those of us that live here skip over: the French Quarter. No area of town gets more hype and is as well-known outside of the city. And sometimes those of us that live here can have a lot of fun down there, sometimes, maybe not the Saturday before Mardi Gras, but sometimes. Although there will always be those strange Metairie and Kenner people who couldn't imagine traveling that far to fight for parking. Lucky for me, I live on St. Charles Avenue and as such I can hop on the streetcar (please don't call it trolley) whenever I need to get downtown. Unlike San Francisco regular people use the streetcar too and it's not expensive, just a $1.25 one way, or $3.00 for an all day pass. Just yesterday I hopped on the streetcar with my friend J.A. to go traipse around the Quarter in search of street musicians and a good time. I would say they we were quite successful at finding both.

While the hustle and bustle of Bourbon Street is a good time, it's very repetitious. It goes something like this: Pizza n' Daiquiri, Strip Club, Shitty Music Club, Bad T-shirt Shop, Chicken n' Daiquiri, Rinse & Repeat, and that's til you get to the gay section of Bourbon, which is pretty much the same, just gay. Venture out from Bourbon street after you get your drink and head over to Royal. Here you will find many a street musician proudly displaying their talents for tips. And you will stumble across some good music. We ran into Jackson Ramsey, playing the fiddle and belting bluegrass standards, which was awesome. I found Tanya and Doris to be especially captivating. They were playing around with, and improving over the top of some great classical jams. In fact if you want a taste you can check out this video, by clicking here. While J.A. and I wandered around the Quarter for awhile, we kept finding ourselves drawn back to this duo, or maybe it was just me. At one point, a friend of the violinist, Tanya, came up and she begged them to play, they declined offering money, and she said, "I don't want your money, just play for me." It was a beautiful moment.

L to R, top to bottom: Streetcar, Onion Rings, Cafe du Monde Employees,
Jambalaya, Who Dat Santas made of Cypress, Gumbo,
Pat O'Briens, Pat O's Courtyard, Street Sign next to STL Cathedral.

We of course stopped and got Beignets at Cafe du Monde just to feel extra touristy, but to be fair, they're freakin' delicious. After spending the day struttin' around the Quarter we hopped back on the streetcar and got off to go to Joey K's. You can find it on Magazine Street a little bit closer to uptown than Cafe du Monde! Ha. This little seafood joint has been attacked by the local artist Simon. If you've been around the city you've seen his stuff, or if you've just watched News with a Twist. Anyway, I think hangin' out in the Quarter, eating beignets and what not is pretty damn New Orleans. Oh yeah, and Geaux Saints, we still love you, even though you lost to the Chiefs. I promise to continue to support the hell out of y'all right now. WHODAT!! God Bless You Boys!

Yeah You Right, Joe.

The Tree & Liuzza's by the Track

See we don't just party ... we relax too.

Sometimes, you just need to take yourself on a date, and after the busy-ness of the past couple weeks it was time. And really, when I say I went on a date by myself - I  mean I went on a date with a tree. I'm in a committed relationship with the Chime Tree at City Park. If you've never found the Chime Tree (and yes it DESERVES capital letters) stop what you're doing, open your planner and make yourself a date with a tree. And while you're there, look around at all the other amazing things that City Park has to offer. (Fun fact: City Park has more square footage than Central Park) The walking paths alone offer a great retreat within the city. There is also the New Orleans Museum of Art which deserves a looksie if you get the chance. But honestly, for me, the best part of NOMA is what's outside in the Sculpture Garden.  There is a giant safety pin (as pictured above) giant fat women, horses made of sticks, stacks of guitars and even the Blue Dog. If you don't know about the Blue Dog, you should. If it feels like I'm givin' y'all a lot of directives about what to do - I am.

I made my waitress, the beautiful Heather take the photo of me eating.

If you want to have the perfect finish to your tree date - I know just the place, though the Chime Tree may not come with you. (In fact, I don't think they even let trees inside, let alone hire them ... bigots.) The place is Liuzza's By The Track, and this place is as real as it gets.  They are a New Orleans institution, a creole holy ground with horseradish infused Bloody Mary's that sell like hotcakes come Jazz Fest, and the food, My GOD, the food. I must admit the first time I came here - I sinned. I had just moved to the city and my friend Angelle was down to visit her family, she came and picked me up and took to this fine establishment and I ordered a turkey po-boy. At the time I was a mid-westerner through and through and I "thought" I didn't eat seafood. I was so wrong, and I apologize for that mistake. Now I know of shrimp, oysters, and the other fine things that come from the Gulf. I highly recommend getting the BBQ shrimp, their signature dish. I can't even begin to describe how good it is, or the garlic oyster po-boy, so effin' good you can barely handle it, and I might get in trouble for saying this, but I think they have the best gumbo you can get. And if you come here, we are going to Liuzza's. Angelle, sorry about the turkey po-boy, I have been learned in the ways of the Gulf South and their foods, and I repent. So, to sum it up, if you need an afternoon alone, go to City Park, sit under the chime tree, walk the 1/2 mile to Liuzza's and check out the graveyard on the way, and then NOM your life away, unless your allergic to shellfish, and then, just be sad.

Yeah You Right, Joe.

Enter Galactic - Beer-Strawberry

This past Saturday night I hopped in my good friend Amanda's car and we headed down Napoleon, parked at Rouses, and headed towards Tipitina's. It was still early in the night, unseasonably cool, (like 85 and breezy) and by 9:45 we had secured a spot just a few steps from the guardrail. The opening act, mynameisjohnmichael, came on at about 10 and played a funky indie-rock set. It was a six-piece band featuring, in classic New Orleans style, a brass section. They closed with that good ole Christian hymn, "Will the Circle be Unbroken?" and were joined by the trumpeter from Mumford & Sons, Nick Etwell. They did in fact "take me to church" as promised by John Michael himself, but if they took me to church, Galactic funked me all the way to Jesus.

Galactic is a funk band in the way that Led Zeppelin is a rock band, or like Earl Scruggs is a banjo player. That is - they are innovative, distinctive, and at the top of their game. To me, and this pains me to say (as a P-Funk Junky), Galactic plays the music I wish I could hear at a George Clinton and the P-Funk All Stars show. But Alas, P-Funk plays a lot of hit or misses, and Galactic always delivers. They're a jazz-funk-rock all-night party band in which every member is more or less a savant; with a rotating set of guest vocalist and musicians, it seems to be an honor just to get to play with these people. They are a New Orleans band who "cut their teeth playing the biggest party in America: Mardi Gras." And in fact, they still play a three night run at Tipitina's during Mardi Gras (or at least they did last year), which is probably the nastiest, funkiest, most ragin' party to ever happen on a Monday night anywhere, ... just sayin'. Anyway, they were joined by Corey Glover, of In Living Color, and in fact played "Cult of Personality." Which I JUST FOUND OUT was Cult, all this time I thought it was Dose, OOPS! But the highlight of the night for me was when House Man, aka Theyrl DeClouet, the original vocalist for Galactic came out to sing "There's Something Wrong with this Picture," and then, yelling at Corey Glover to join him they played the hardest, nastiest, most beautiful thing I might have ever heard, "Bittersweet." If somebody recorded that show and has this, I will pay you. It was transcendent. I was literally taken over body and soul. I could continue to talk about how FREAKING AMAZING this show was, but I must move on.

Yes, their art is Jerry Garcia with a beer.

After a very late night at Galactic, (I left at 3am when my feet no longer had any feeling in them) I got up early (like 9:30am, which is early to me) and got ready to go to one of my favorite places in the city, Cooter Brown's. My friend LeeAnn picked me up and our collective WHODAT would have been hard to deal with, most especially for baseball loving yankees. And I was pumped, first of all, as LeeAnn says, "NFL season is the most wonderful time of the year." Second, it was a Saints game, and I freakin' love Saints games. And third, we were headed to Cooter Browns. I ordered food at this fine uptown establishment and while I didn't get it this time, I recommend the heart-attack-inducing Coon Ass Special: Two Crawfish Pies covered in remoulade on thick French bread. Also the wings, and the soft-shell crab po-boy, just go there and eat. SO GOOD.  They have more beer than everywhere else. Don't believe me? Check out the BEER LIST. One of my favorite things about Cooter's is that they even have out-of-season beers. Sometimes, especially for a noon game, I don't want to start with a dark beer, I want an Abita Strawberry. Y'know, a good breakfast beer. And while it's "supposedly" a spring seasonal ... they have it.

Unless you're at Cooter's, then this ad is a lie. 

And really, I can't think of anything more New Orleans, than drinking an Abita while watching the Saints, after a long night of live funk music. And while the Saints lost, at least football is back, funk is still played, and Abita still flows freely. But I gotta say, I miss Sean Payton.

Yeah You Right, Joe.